Tying the Klemheist Knot

Klemheist Knot

Our latest instructional video is all about tying the Klemheist knot. We suggest the Klemheist, Classic Prussik andFrench Prussik are the three friction knots every climber should know. We have other videos demonstrating the Classic Prussik here and French Prussik here.

All three have their pros and cons. The Klemheist offers a grippy knot with the big advantage that it can be tied with tape. This makes it especially useful if you don’t have a normal Prussik loop available. It is also handy if you are tying the Klemheist around several ropes together. On the other hand, having a knot made from tape can be a disadvantage sometimes. The key is really to know in what context to use each option.

This video below explains how easy tying the Klemheist knot is. You’ll soon see that it is fairly straight forward. It is important to wrap in the way shown on the video and to get lots of tape in contact with the rope. Once you’ve got the principles do keep practicing until it becomes instinctive. Perhaps you have a perfect new winter evening activity!

Choosing suitable tape makes a difference. We prefer soft and flexible Dyneema tape. This gives the grip needed for a secure knot and yet is plenty strong enough. Do bear in mind that any tape of this type is not very heat resistant though. The Klemheist is also sometimes referred to as the French Machard knot. Juts something to be aware of if searching for it on Google.

Of course, to find out more about using it in the right context you may want to consider one of our Peak District National Park Climber’s Self-Rescue courses. All these one day courses are run by qualified mountaineering instructors who are members of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors.