Equalising with a twist is perfect when you are equalising an anchor and there‘s slack in one side. We use this a lot and hope you’ll find this latest top tip useful.
There are loads of ways to equalise an anchor. Whichever you choose, the key principles of ensuring the elements are both equalised and independent always stay the same. In the illustration photos we’ve used the method of tying an overhand knot as we use this a lot. Without going off at a tangent too much, equalising with an overhand creates a handy power loop. At belays both members of the climbing team can clip in easily .
So, you’ve tied a central knot to equalise two points in your anchor. But, when you orientate the central loop you might find one strand has too much slack. Here’s when equalising with a twist comes in.
Rather than take the time to untie your overhand knot and readjust, it is often quicker and simpler to simpler thread a loop or two from the loose side. You’ll soon use up the excess. It is quick, simple and very effective.
The photo below shows equalising with a twist in action. The left hand strand was a little loose, but adding a twist in the sling removed the slack. If you need to add another twist or two that’s no problem. Just balance it up and you are ready to go.
If you’ve found this link useful we have some other handy trad climber’s tips available. Please do check out The Ultimate Trad Quickdraw and Yosemite Racking. Of course, if you want to learn how to put all these tips into practice in the expert hands of a fully qualified Association of Mountaineering Instructors member, Please consider joining one of our climbing courses.