Today I witnessed a very very near miss at Baggy Point. A lead climber accidentally pulled a tennis ball sized block off and it clattered down the slab missing his second by a few centimetres. The second was tied in to a belay and there was little she could do to move so it was only pure good fortune that prevented a serious injury - she was not wearing a helmet! I’ve seen plenty of falling rock incidents over the years and dodged my fair share in the past too. But nowadays I really find it hard to justify not wearing a lid because they are so comfortable and light. Here is some information from a write up I made of the 2008 BMC Technical Conference where we tested a variety of helmets. Its worth a read………
The workshop was a practical demonstration of helmet impact tests performed by Dr Mark Taylor of Leeds University. Mark started by outlining the studies that have been completed on head injuries and helmet use. The 1986 study by Read et al studied 42 autopsies and head injuries were a major factor in 21 of them. Read concluded that 25% of the deaths could have been prevented if helmets had been worn (although we didn’t explore how he came to that conclusion!). Another study in Yosemite(1988) found that 9 out of 13 fatalities were due to head injury and Mark had also studied mountain rescue call out reports from the last 12 years (excluding Scotland). These showed that 25% of injuries were head trauma and, of these, people wearing helmets were less likely to be fatally injured.
The practical workshop session started with us visually inspecting a wide range of helmets and discussing their relative design features. These ranged from the ‘Cromptom Climber’ (the first commercially available climbing helmet) through to the latest models from many of the main manufacturers and some lesser-known producers too. Comparing some of these older models with something like a Petzl Meteor makes you realise just how reassuringly far helmet design has come in the last few decades.
Mark discussed the 2 main helmet types and how they do their job in very different ways. The Meteor style foam helme (commonly known as lightweight helmets) absorb impact by distributing the force around the foam whilst allowing the foam at the impact site to distort. On the hard shell and strap cradle style helmets (commonly referred to as traditional helmets) the impact force is mostly absorbed by the straps. This creates an interesting situation where the lightweight models will absorb the force from a pointed object better than a blunt one – In this case it really is better to get hit on the head by a sharper object - just not too sharp! The way traditional helmets absorb the force led to some discussion about the trend some years ago to store food or first aid equipment in the space between the helmet shell and the strapping cradle. While clearly not a good idea Mark had tested helmets with flapjack, Mars Bars and a folded survival bag in the cradle/shell cavity and found the lowest impact force was recorded on the helmet with flapjack in (flapjack was 2.4kn, the survival bag recorded 8.5kn and the helmet with nothing inside recorded 3.5kn). He didn’t specify the best type of flapjack though!
Mark outlined the production methods used for the various helmet types and the drop test standards. There are several tests performed on helmets including side impact tests, penetration tests and assessments to ensure helmets can resist being pulled forwards and backwards off the wearer’s head. I was interested to hear of this last test due to the recent reported incidents of climbers getting helmets caught on holds in fall or lowering situations. However, Mark pointed out that really the test is only to ensure the helmet won’t be pulled off and not to get it to release under load. There was a limit to what we could perform in the corridor at PYB so our focus was to be a test that mimicked the standard drop test using a blunt weight. The standard for this test is a 5kg weight dropped from 2 metres onto the helmet crown. The EN (European Norm) standard requires the force transmitted to the head to be less than 10kn while the more stringent UIAA standard requires the transmitted force to be under 8kn. Mark pointed out that no-one actually knew how must force was required to cause head injury because tests obviously haven’t been performed on people, but he suggested that it is very likely the transmitted force without a helmet would be well over 40kn. It should also be noted that these tests are normally carried out at a variety of temperatures (-20 degrees, 35 degrees and a test on a helmet that had been left in the sun for 400 hours) but our only option was room temperature. We did discuss these temperatures and the whole group predicted that the low temperature test would give the highest reading due to the helmet getting more brittle. In reality the helmet tested at 35 degrees tends to be weakest. The tests we completed on the day gave reassuring results with all the helmet passing both the EN and UIAA benchmarks. Here is a brief summary of some of the results on the first drop test on some common helmets*:
* (Tests made on the day were uncalibrated, and should be taken as indicative only!)
However, we also went on to perform a second drop test on all the helmets and most models gave readings above the EN and UIAA benchmarks. For example, the second drop on a Petzl Meteor recorded 10.5kn and the Petzl Elios was 11.5kn. A few other issues were discussed in this session that might be of interest. The perennial issue of whether it is safe to put stickers on helmets was raised and Mark pointed out that only stickers specifically authorised by manufacturers can really be deemed completely safe to use. On a similar point we discussed whether the effects of other chemicals have been tested and Mark said there had been a case of a helmet that had cracked after its owner had sprayed it with DEET based insect repellent a number of times. Also, an outdoor centre that had regularly sprayed their helmets with anti nit spray had reported several cracks in the plastic.
Mark concluded by saying that because there aren’t any bad helmets being produced by the reputable manufacturers the choice comes down to the type of climbing you plan to do, the way it fits and the way it looks. We really are spoilt nowadays!
This week I’m down in North Devon for some climbing around Baggy Point. Baggy is a compact atmospheric area offering some fantastic climbing on beautiful coastline. The weather this week has been brilliant and I’ve been really surprised how few others climbers are here – we’ve seen only 2 others in 4 climbing days!
The family are here too so après climbing activities have included beach bbq’s, biking and surfing. Today Ben (7) and Tom (6) also loaded up their harnesses, helmets and rock shoes and came round to the Promontory too. They had a ball abseiling in to their first ever sea cliffs and seconded 2 severes (currently their hardest climbs).
Oh, and of course, if you’re at the seaside you need to sample the local ice creams too! Hope you are having fun wherever you are.
We have just 2 places remaining on our December Costa Blanca climbing trips and we’re offering tham a discounted rate so we can get the trip finalised and accommodation booked. The remaining dates are to fly out on early evening of December 17th (or you could get a very early flight onthe morning of the 18th), climb 18th, 19th and return on the evening of December 20th after another full days cragging.
15% off our usual cost of £420 makes this trip a snip at £357. This includes accommodation, car hire, airport transfers, carbon offsetting fee, all equipment and instruction. Only extras are flights (currently about £55) and food. A perfect pre-Christmas adventure for anyone seconding at hard severe.
Call or email or have a read here http://www.peakmountaineering.com/climbing/costa-blanca.htm for more details……but don’t delay!
Our annual Costa Blanca trips have become something of a tradition and its not too late for you to get involved this year.
Not sure? Well how does this sound……………
The Costa Blanca area has a wealth of quality limestone climbing and this trip takes in some of the best sport climbing along with an ascent of the awesome Costa landmark, the Puig Campana. Taking the ‘Espolon Central’ route, 1500 ft of top quality HS grade climbing over 14 pitches leads to the summit of this beautiful peak. Once at the top we get amazing views of the surrounding mountains and coastline.
We spend a day honing your skills on one of the many sport climbing crags on the first day before tackling the Puig Campana on day 2. This leaves us a final day to fit in some more sport climbing before flying home in the evening. We base ourselves in Finestrat at a Casa Rural where you will enjoy comfortable accommodation with a swimming pool, lounge and kitchen.
We have space on the trips running between December 14th and Thursday 17th and Thursday 17th and Sunday 20th. For the first dates we will fly out in the late afternoon of Monday, spend a day at Sella on Tuesday, tackle the Puig Campana on Wednesday and have a final day at somewhere like the Toix sea cliffs on Thursday before an evening flight back to Blighty. The second dates involve flying late afternoon on Thursday, visiting Sella on Friday, Puig Campana on Saturday and Toix followed by return flight on Sunday.
The cost for the trip is even better value this year with all costs (except flights and food) covered for £390. Manchester to Alicante flights with Monarch are currently only about £55 return (with all taxes) and for food there are options to either eat out or use the kitchen at the accommodation. We will be staying at The Orange House which is a legendary climbers base and more details of what is on offer can be found on their website at www.orangehouseclimbing.com. Car hire, any equipment and all instruction are included in the price.
Please email or call us and we’ll get you booked and ready to go in no time. Go on, you know you want too!
The article Paul has written on snow shelters for the next issue of the BMC’s Summit magazine is now live on the site. Have a look at http://www.peakmountaineering.com/info/advice-articles/techniques/snow-shelters.htm to check it out before the magazine even hits your letterbox!
This weekend we’ve been running some more of the BMC training for local climbing clubs. This weekend was extra special because the club members we were training were from my own club, the Mynydd Climbing Club. Over two days 19 members received training at differing levels and we were even treated to perfect Peak District weather for the duration.
As I explained in a previous post the BMC funding is an exciting initiative that allows clubs to run training for its members and I’m really pleased to have been involved with training for two clubs that have received these grants. The fact that the Mynydd had two days that were oversubscribed shows both what a vital role climbing clubs play in developing and training people who are new to mountain sports and also what a thriving club the Mynydd is.
If you want to know more about the Mynydd check out the website at Mynydd.org.uk or contact us and we’ll be happy to introduce you. Thanks to all the attendees for a fun few days and thanks to Adrian for his usual sterling help.
As a young scout I cut my hillwalking teeth on the wild moorlands of Kinder and Bleaklow. It felt like a very special place in those days and every time I am out there now it feels just as special. Undoubtedly this is because of its incredible natural beauty but it also has something to do with its amazing past……….
Benny Rothman was a Manchester based rambler who, in common with many people at that time, liked to travel out of the city to the Peak District to enjoy the top quality walking it has to offer. The problem at the time was that the landowners were against anyone accessing their land and ramblers frequently found themselves confronted by gamekeepers who drove them away. Finally, following an incident where Benny and his friends had been hassled yet again by angry keepers on Bleaklow he decided enough was enough.
On April 24th 1932 Benny and 400 ramblers assembled at Bowden Bridge Quarry in Hayfield and together they strode onto Kinder Scout intent on reaching the summit. A scuffle with gamekeepers in William’s Clough left one of the keepers slightly injured but they carried on regardless and arrived the summit to celebrate with another large group that had walked over from Sheffield.
Unfortunately, on their arrival back in Hayfield Benny and 4 other trespassers were arrested and later imprisoned for between 2 and 6 months for their actions. The public outrage at the convictions was intense and a few weeks later that strength of feeling was demonstrated when 10,000 ramblers met in Castleton for an access rally at Winnat’s Pass.
Although nothing concrete happened for another 17 years, the seeds of change had been sown and the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act was passed by the post war Labour Government in 1949. The process for setting up the our national parks was underway and in 1951 the Peak District National Park became the first to be designated.
Last weekend the importance of Kinder Scout and its role in this iconic event was recognised again when it became a National Nature Reserve in a ceremony at New Mills Town Hall. The Peak District………always leading the way!
If you want to experience the wild beauty of Kinder Scout and learn some vital skills at the same time why not join our upcoming Introductory Navigation Course on December 12th and 13th. Please contact us for more details.
Did you see the TV programme about Dean Potter a few nights ago? If not here is the classic footage of his untethered slackline crossing of the Lost Arrow Spires in Yosemite. As far as I know this is the only time this has been done without a safety sling. Watch the film and you’ll see why!
The last week has seen Peak Mountaineering delivering a wide variety of courses. We’ve had David on a private ML refresher day in Snowdonia, Alexa and Dom enjoying some introductory Peak District climbing, Al and 11 of his friends enjoying some autumn mountain biking in the Dark Peak as part of his stag weekend celebrations and 2 intermediate navigation courses have also been on the go in the Peak and Snowdonia.
In between Paul has been assisting on a couple of first aid courses and we’ve been helping to arrange some rigging assistance for the Sherlock Holmes movie Paul and Adrian helped with a couple of weeks ago.
Things usually quieten down a bit in October and November but this year is busier than ever. Long live the Staycation!
