Peak Mountaineering
The climbing blog of Paul Lewis
Archive for February, 2009
February 28, 2009 at 9:33 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
For the last few days Darren and I have been snowholing on Creag Meagaidh. Darren is a regular client and we have shared some great adventures together….a night in a snowhole was next on his list! The only problem was that he arrived in Spean Bridge just as the temperature soared above the summits and the rain that had been falling for the last few days turned monsoon like. Undeterred, we headed out from Aberarder with info that several old holes existed at ‘The Window’ and there was one left by a winter ML team just under the summit.
As always Darren takes to everything effortlessly. He strapped on crampons for the first time and strode confidently up steep snow slopes with a rucksack that wouldn’t have looked out of place at the Everest South Col. Once at the window we found about a dozen old holes and Darren soon sniffed out a cosy 2 person pad. Half an hours digging and we had our home for the night and all that was left to do was plenty of eating and drinking then a sound nights sleep - perfect!
The next day we did a nice loop around the plateau and made our way back to the car via some nifty poor visibility navigation and some work on emergency shelters and ice axe arrests…and several celebratory beers. A brilliant couple of days and, as usual, great company. Thanks Darren.
February 25, 2009 at 9:33 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
We walked up to the Ben in wet and windy weather then waded through various parties on the international meet and found, to our surprise, that no one was on Green Gully…..Green Gully it is then! Sinead battled through the spindrift of the first few pitches before I took over and battled through what I would claim to be far worse spindrift on pitch 3 (Sinead would probably dispute this!). Suddenly, on pitch 4, I popped through the deluge and into the upper basin to find calm and settled conditions - very bizarre but very welcome. We continued to the top in fine weather and whizzed down number 4 in no time. The Ben showing it’s many faces again.
Green Gully is an uber classic grade 4 and should be at the top of every Ben addicts tick list. Good belays, fine climbing and a great situation that is often fairly sheltered when all around is wild…except for the spindrift that is. Enjoy.
Cheers,
Paul
February 24, 2009 at 9:28 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
The weather in the west continues to be very variable although there’s enough here for any winter climbers wanting an adventure. On Sunday I was up on Aonach Mor and the back corrie has reasonable snow fields and plenty of snow in the bowl around the climbers col. Yesterday we had a day in Glencoe and found plenty to do on Stob Coire Nan Lochan. We did a mix of ups and downs on a selection of routes including Pinnacle Gully, Broad Gully and Dorsal Arete before finding that time was pushing on……No problem. We put Martin in front and made a super fast descent getting from the bottom of Pinnacle Gully to the car park in 47 minutes!
Today we’ve been up on the East Face of Aonach Mor and the conditions and weather have been great. Sinead ascended one of the ‘routes with no name’ immediately right of Easy Gully then I climbed White Shark which is a fine route currently in fine condition. The advantage of the mild temperature is the lovely plasticky ice and the top steep pitch was a joy with single stick placements every time.
Tomorrow we are off to the Ben to sniff out something interesting. The forecast is a lower freezing level but stronger winds with gusts up to 55mph. High is where it’s at with ascents of Smith Route, Comb and Green Gully and several other higher lines being climbed by people on the International Meet currently happening at Glenmore. There has even been a new route climbed today with Zoe Hart and Simon Richardson ticking ‘The Alpine Princess’ (IV,4). West is best?…….of course it is!
Anyway, time to pack the sack so I’ll let you know how we get on tomorrow evening.
Cheers,
Paul
February 20, 2009 at 10:32 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
Today has been a mixed bag of rain, strong winds and, very occasionally, calm and dry weather. I’ve been up on Aonach Mor finishing a five day winter skills course and the East Face was very busy with climbers reporting good conditions on several routes. Tomorrow strong winds are forecast and the temperature outside as I write is 9 degrees. So I can’t say the weather is great but I can certainly say there’s stuff to do if you are keen.
As for me, Im looking forward to a day off tomorrow…lie in, leisurely breakfast and a chance to sort out a few bits of gear that need some TLC. I had planned a trip to the world famous Fort William Leisure Centre for a sauna session but I’ve heard it’s no longer open. Personally I believe this to be a tragic loss for the area in general and for visiting climbers in particular….but don’t bother starting a petition. Apparently there have been so many complaints it is going to be reopened later in the year. Hoorah!
Finally, my apologies for the lack of photos on the blog recently. I have some great shots to put on but have unfortunately left my connector lead back at Peak HQ. I will sort that little hiccup as soon as I can by the power of Royal Mail. Have a great weekend.
Cheers,
Paul
February 19, 2009 at 9:29 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
A while ago we reported on the tragic accident in the Blue Mountains where a bolt failure led to the death of climber Nick Kaczorowski. Simon Carter had now written a full and detailed account of the accident on his blog at http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/articles/37/report-follow-up. There is also shocking video of the removal of the remaining bolts from the route. Its well worth taking the time to check this out. For information on bolting in Britain it is well worth reading the information on the BMC’s Better Bolts Campaign at http://www.thebmc.co.uk.
February 19, 2009 at 8:58 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
This week I’ve been running a winter skills course in very changeable conditions. On Tuesday we sat enjoying balmy 11 degree temperatures on Ben Nevis but things have started to come good again with the thermometer hovering back around zero as I write. Jeff has been up on the Ben today and reported good conditions on Comb Gully and we had similar reports from Simon on the East Face of Aonach Mor. If you are fancying a trip up here this weekend its worth it…as long as you are prepared to get up high!
February 18, 2009 at 9:46 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
I was discussing how I didn’t have time to come down to the pub with my American friend Alex yesterday. He summed it up nicely, as Alex tends to do, by saying ”no time for the pub and you haven’t even updated your blog for an age.” I mumbled the same usual excuses about courses to organise and meetings to attend but he wasn’t having any of it…”hey dude. You know you’re too busy when you’re too busy to blog.” Fair point well made Alex. So, to keep you happy I promise to keep on top of the blog writing and get down to the pub…when I’ve finished arranging these courses for the next few weeks!
Anyway, after a mad few weeks I should have time to keep on top of the blog writing as I’ve now left the office behind for a bit of time at the chalkface in Scotland. I’m now enjoying the delights of a Scottish winter, nights at the Clachaig and some fine whisky. Perhaps I’ll will be too busy socialising to blog over the next few weeks! Watch this space!
February 10, 2009 at 9:46 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
I’ve just had a great week in Rjukan with friends Phill, Dave P, Steve, Dave S and Keith. The area is enjoying -20 degree temperatures and brilliant ice at the moment and we enjoyed some fantastic climbing (and more than our fair share of Norwegian cake). I’ll get some photos on the gallery as soon as possible but, as usual, my photos really don’t do justice to the quality of the place.
We enjoyed a load of the classics and a fair number of adventures but the weirdest incident of the week came as Dave was leading on one of the classic 5’s under the Vermork bridge. He’d just started setting up a belay next to some other Brits when it started to rain. Trouble is, they soon realised this was more of a deluge than a rain shower, the sky around them was blue and no one else was complaining of rain. It turned out they were under an outflow from the powerplant above and soon the icefall was like Victoria Falls. Dave scuttled off left and topped out at supersonic speed but the other poor team were nailed to the ice with several of Black Diamond’s finest and they had to tough it out until their partners made it to the top. I’m sure it was a very grim experience but, I hate to say, very very entertaining to watch from below!
A great trip and thanks to the boys for the excellent company.
Ideas for next year?!
Cheers,
Paul
February 1, 2009 at 10:32 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
Over this weekend I joined about 100 other AMI (Association of Mountaineering Instructors) members for the AGM. This year we held it at Scotland’s National Mountain Centre, Glenmore Lodge, and the weekend was a great success. The main AGM on Saturday evening was significant not only because many of the Association’s successes over the current year were outlined, but also because my friend Pete Stacey was standing down after a very successful term as Chairman (and time before that as secretary) and several committee members and a treasurer were being elected to replace members whose periods in office had expired. Tony Halliwell, a very experienced instructor and commitee member, was elected as the new chairman and I was really pleased to be elected to join the committee along with 4 other new members.
During the weekend there were also many other events and activities to take part in. I spent 2 days on a coaching processes course which looked in detail at the way instructors coach and positive and innovative strategies for maximising the learning opportunities we are able to offer. I am buzzing with enthusiasm to be able to implement these ideas and I have already started to see a difference in the way I approach my coaching - great news for anyone coming on our courses in the future!
Unfortunately 2 days on this course meant I had to forego the chance to participate in some of the other workshops such as one on avalanche assessment or another on using GPS as a navigational teaching tool. There was even one on accounting which I’m sure my accountant would have wanted me to attend!
AMI is proud to be supported by lots of great companies and our main sponsors DMM and Mountain Equipment had representatives on hand to discuss innovations in the world of top end equipment as well as to take feedback on kit we’ve all been using and abusing over the last year.
AMI is going from strength to strength and the fantastic magazine, sparkly new website and extensive CPD schedule are only part of a bigger picture of innovation and development. It’s a great time to get invloved and I can’t wait to help forge the future of my professional association.
More information on AMI is available by visiting our website at www.ami.org (magazines can be ordered form the website too).
Cheers,
Paul
