Peak Mountaineering
The climbing blog of Paul Lewis
Archive for January, 2009
January 26, 2009 at 4:19 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
Coire Na Tulaich, Glencoe
You will probably have already heard about the tragic avalanche deaths in Scotland on 25th January. Eamonn Murphy, his brother John and Brian Murray were caught whilst ascending Coire Na Tulaich in Glencoe. This route is known as a technically “easy” line but it has been known to avalanche several times in the past and its geography, a narrowing gully above a much broader upper bowl, places the snowpack under considerable pressure.
There has been a considerable amount of snow in Scotland this year and the SAIS (Sportscotland Avalanche Information Service) forecast for the day put the avalanche risk at category 3, meaning there was “significant risk”. The forecast also highlighted the fact that the highest chance of snow breaking away was on northwestern and northern aspects and Coire Na Tulaich faces northwest.
For anyone heading to the Scottish mountains in winter the SAIS forecasts provide invaluable information and the forecasts are free to access on their website at www.sais.gov.uk. Alternatively, if you want to access the forecasts while you are in Scotland they are posted at prominent access points and in local shops such as Nevisport in Fort William.
The Clachaig Inn in Glencoe is also hosting more of its free avalanche awareness lectures on 3rd and 10th February (as well as others on navigation and winter safety). Full details can be found on their website at www.clachaig.com and there’s valuable information on the Mountaineering Council of Scotland website at www.mcofs.org.uk.
Finally, it is well worth making the time to read up on the subject and “A Chance in a Million: Scottish Avalanches” by Bob Barton and Blyth Wright, “Snow Sense” by Jill Fredston and Doug Fesler or “Winter Skills” by Andy Cunningham and Blyth Wright all give vital, clearly presented information and are the top recommendations we make for clients on our winter skills courses.
The victims of this disaster were very well equipped and experienced mountaineers who had spent many years enjoying the tranquility and adventure of the mountains. The accident is a tragic reminder to everyone about the avalanche potential that poses a very real threat to everyone venturing into the mountains of Britain. Our thoughts go out to the families of Eamonn, John and Brian.
January 19, 2009 at 11:01 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
You may have heard about the recent tragic death of climber Nick Kaczorowski’s in Australia’s Blue Mountains. It appears that the trigger for the accident was bolt failure and award winning climbing photographer Simon Carter has placed an extensive report on his blog http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/index.php.
It makes sobering reading and I hope some important lessons are learnt for the future. To get a British perspective on the state of bolting this side of the pond it’s worth checking my account of the bolting workshop at the recent BMC Technical Conference which is now in the articles section of the website. Stay safe.
Regards,
Paul
January 19, 2009 at 10:50 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
I always feel inspired as you round the corner on the Snowdon miner’s track and get your first glimpse of Llewidd. One of Snowdonia’s most impressive mountains and home to a rockface steeped in Welsh climbing history. North facing, nearly 900 metres high and with a selection of quality mountaineering routes to challenge any budding alpinist - Llewidd really is a must visit venue. Having said that, a wet windy day in January is probably not the time to make first acquaintance. The holds are slimy, the cracks seeping and the protection spaced…….but at least you won’t find yourself queueing for routes!
On Saturday Phill and I headed over for a ‘quick blast’ up Horned Crag Route. The 270 metres of VDiff climbing sounded perfect and we even expected to squeeze in another route in the afternoon. Don’t you believe it! Try 270 metres of mossy holds, loose rock, challenging moves and overall maximum adventurousness and we topped out with just enough time to get back to Pen Y Pass before dark. Luckily Phill thrives on a challenge and there’s few people better to have along when you need to ‘pull something out of the bag’. Of course any rumours that we needed to use a bit of alpine aid on the last pitch are completely unfounded…..probably!
January 16, 2009 at 9:21 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
A few days ago I got an email from Andy, an old college friend, who was packing for a month’s ski trip in the Alps. He was just about to drive down alone and overnight ready to hit the slopes the next morning. A full on journey but Andy’s enthusiasm would surprise many people. “I’m looking forward to it (no, really!)” he wrote! I was jealous.
Tonight I’ve had a meeting with Brian, my number crunching accountant wizard, as we prepare Peak Mountaineering’s accounts. As usual I looked with shock as our transport costs leapt off the page….money spent on many thousands of miles travelled, and most of them completed alone. Again, strangely, it’s a figure that brings a smile to my face (although I wish I could find a way around the environmental impact).
Today I was speaking to Ally, a primary school teacher friend, as he told me what he’d been up to during the Christmas holidays. He told me he’d spent the first 3 days of the break reading, watching movies and generally just locking himself away and having some ‘him’ time. Sounded great.
Many clients ask whether I like my job and the’s answer is always the same….it’s the best job in the world. I love passing on knowledge, sharing great adventures and being in wonderful places but most of what makes it so fantastic is the time spent interacting with great people. It’s a very sociable job and I spend a lot of time talking (many clients might say too much!). When I get home the talking continues with a busy family life and 2 boys with enough energy to power a small village.
So sometimes quiet time is precious and, for me, that’s my travelling time. It’s the time when I have nothing to do except think. Nothing to do but watch the world go by and nobody demanding my attention (except my Tom Tom and the occasional phone call). Some of my best decisions (and worst!) are made on long journeys. I’m just preparing a newsletter and some of my latest thinking time ideas will be there to entice you to join us on some of this years Peak adventures. I hope you think my thinking time has been well spent!
January 14, 2009 at 12:32 am · Filed under peak mountaineering
If you know the Peak District you will know Kinder. If you know Kinder you will know Kinder Downfall. If you don’t know Kinder Downfall it’s a 45 ft waterfall at the edge of the Kinder Plateau and it’s well worth a visit.
Some winters, after a fairly prolonged freezing spell, it freezes enough to climb it as a winter route. Reports had filtered in that during last week the downfall was ‘in nick’ but unfortunately other commitments had kept me away.
On Saturday evening at about 9pm I got a phonecall from Dave and Stuart. It was a bit hard to hear them as they sounded like they were in a wind tunnel.
“Guess where we are” said Dave. “Just about to do the last pitch of the Downfall!”
Now my plans for Snowdonia had been abandoned because of the rising teperatures and gale force wind forecast so I had some time free on Sunday. I whizzed off to Hayfield as soon as I could on Sunday morning and blasted up by the side of the river. From a distance there appeared to be plenty of ice but as I got closer I saw the tell tale signs of a windblown upward spray of water…..I knew I had missed the chance. Arrival at the Downfall confirmed that there was a major stream of water flowing over the ice and an attempt would have been suicidal. What a difference 12 hours makes!
Someone who has been having more success on ice is our associate Dave and his Antarctic team. On Sunday they reached the South Pole. Apparently they could see the Scott-Amundsen base for most of the last day and finally got there in the early evening. They have been updating base by sat phone and here is the brief report we have so far….
At about 8pm local time the team reached the South Pole - today was an incredibly hard walk in freezing, freezing cold conditions - the temperature was -30 degrees with a wind chill factor that took the temperature down to -40 degrees. Everyone is very, very tired not to mention hungry but obviously elated to have achieved the goal.
A fantastic effort and we can’t wait to hear all about it. So that’s the two poles done - Everest next?!
Cheers,
Paul
January 9, 2009 at 10:09 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
All our very best wishes to everyone for 2009. If you’ve been following the climbing press you’ll know its all been happening. Downgradings, media debates, new speed records and very lengthy forum discussions - I sense 09 is going to be a very exciting year in the vertical world! It’s also been a great start to winter with good conditions in Scotland, Wales and even ice forming in various Peak hotspots.
While I’m stuck at Peak HQ Al has been playing in the Scottish snow on our first winter skills course. Sarah, Jim, Tanya and Claire have been enjoying some great conditions in Lochaber and Al reports a great start to the season. He has promised to email some photos down to me but I’ve heard that one before! Next week he’s doing more of the same and my first sniff of the Scottish winter will be next weekend when I’m running a 2 day course based in Fort William. Conditions have also been great in Snowdonia and, unless things change drastically, I’m heading over there on Sunday to have a play myself.
That will be a welcome break as I’ve spent the first week back at work chained to the desk organising a bunch of initiatives for the coming year and finishing several articles and reviews that I had promised to various people. I have been making regular lunchtime visits to the climbing wall to refresh the brain cells though (if not the arms!). Next week I’ll be putting a news letter together with some exciting new courses and adventures for this year. It will automatically get sent to everyone in our database but please remember to sign up on the homepage if want a copy yourself.
Finally, on boxing day we waved off our associate Dave on his South Pole adventure and I’m pleased to say his team are making excellent progress. Yesterdays email update reads….
Having stopped early to make camp yesterday, they spent 11hrs in their tents trying to catch up on sleep. They’ve walked 9.5 miles today and have just stopped to make camp for the night. No major problems today other than ski bindings which they expected and were prepared for. The weather is good - bright blue sky but with a slight wind today. The temperature is c. -23/-24 degrees but the wind chill takes it down to a very cold c. -32/-35 degrees. They are all beginning to acclimatise to the altitude and remain in good spirits.
Keep up the good work guys.
Cheers,
Paul
