Peak Mountaineering
The climbing blog of Paul Lewis
Archive for September, 2008
September 30, 2008 at 6:43 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
James Pearson has just reported a first ascent of a new route with the heady grade of E12 7a! The route, which he has named ‘The Walk of Life’, takes an audacious line on the slab of Dyer’s Lookout on the North Devon coast. In the words of UKClimbing “James’ grade of E12 7a will of course raise a few eyebrows. Far and away the biggest number given to a trad route, The Walk of Life must be at least F8c+ climbing with a ‘death fall’ potential to warrant the grade”.
A fantastic effort that keeps UK trad climbing at the forefront of the world scene.
September 29, 2008 at 9:01 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
I took a few hours out with Alan today to revisit a climb I had first ascended many years ago. Chequers Crack at Froggatt is a route that catches many people out. Although its grade of HVS 5c suggests it’s well protected (but fairly technical), what it doesn’t really make clear is that the route is very steep and sustained and that protection, while plentiful, is also very strenuous to place.
Fortunately, todays ascent went smoothly and we escaped the crag just as the heavens opened and the rain set in for the day. Rain that was best watched over a mug of tea and piece of flapjack from the comfort of the Outside shop cafe!
September 28, 2008 at 8:23 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
Tryfan from Llyn Idwal
Its all been happening in Wales this week. While I was in South Wales Cal was enjoying some fine scrambling in Snowdonia. On Saturday she went out for a fine scramble over the Carneddau then on Sunday the team went up the north ridge of Tryfan. She described the weather as ‘balmy’ and the company as ‘brilliant’ - or maybe that was the other way around (only joking ladies!).
September 27, 2008 at 8:09 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
Today I’ve been in South Wales attending a leader training course run by the team at Adventureworks. It was a brilliant day with lots of useful information, a chance to review the season and a range of medical training sessions run by the companies medical team. These included input on a range of medical conditions as well as a chance to try some more advanced techniques like suturing and giving injections. But don’t worry…..pigs trotters were used for suturing and a bag of oranges were willing volunteers for injection practice!
September 26, 2008 at 8:08 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
On Thursday and Friday Mike and I were in Snowdonia doing an intermediate navigation course. The weather on both days was fantastic and time was spent in the Carneddau on day one before day two which we spent around ‘the horns’ which is a popular area for navigation training near Snowdon. The course also involved a night navigation exercise and incorporated an assessment element for the NNAS silver award.
After we finished I went up to the Cromlech Boulders for a few hours cranking. This was a lovely end to a brilliant couple of days that felt like the middle of summer.
September 24, 2008 at 7:06 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
There are several professional bodies that co-ordinate and administer the training of instructors and guides in the UK - and they do a brilliant job of ensuring instructors are highly trained and professional. They also help to keep instructors up to speed by providing CPD (continuing professional development) opportunities and representing the profession in related national and international matters.
The Institute of Outdoor Learning (IOL) sits among these organisations, and yet slighty apart, because its focus isn’t so much the technical skills but the ’soft skills’ that are just as important to enable instructors to provide as valuable an outdoor experience as possible. In its own words ” the institute encourages outdoor learning by developing quality, safety and opportunity to experience outdoor activity provision and by supporting and enhancing the good practice of those who work in the outdoors”.
IOL also runs several rigorous accreditation schemes for outdoor practitioners - and the standard for those that have worked in the industry for a considerable time is the APIOL (Accredited Practitioner of the Institute of Outdoor Learning). The accreditation scheme involves the candidate in a process of reflection about their outdoor practice that is supported by a mentor. At the end of this an in depth interview is the final step in the process. APIOL status is currently held by around 300 outdoor professionals and since finishing the process myself I have gone on to become a mentor and assessor for the institute.
Over the last few days I have been down to London for an IOL training session and, because I rarely get to the big smoke, it has been a great few days. The train, the tube, Buckingham Palace and even a visit to the Royal Geographical Society - its been a great adventure! Having said that, getting back to the Peak District the day I got back felt extra special too - absence does indeed make the heart grow fonder!
More details on IOL can be found at http://www.outdoor-learning.org.
September 23, 2008 at 7:46 am · Filed under peak mountaineering
PEAK MOUNTAINEERING ESSENTIAL SKILLS COURSES
Following the success of our Essential Skills courses this year, we are running them again next Spring - at the same price of only £35 per person.
These courses make a great Christmas present and we can send a gift voucher on request.
All the courses run in the Peak District and we’ve scheduled the climbing and rescue courses on consecutive days so you can always do both in a weekend - that’s only £70 for a full weekend’s instruction!
ESSENTIAL OUTDOOR CLIMBING SKILLS COURSE
A one day course covering key belay building skills, setting up top and bottom rope systems, gear placement and safe practice issues on outdoor crags.
The course covers many skills needed by indoor climbers looking to move outside but please note that lead climbing will not be covered on this course. All specialist equipment can be provided.
Course dates: Saturday 21/03/09 and Saturday 18/04/09
ESSENTIAL RESCUE SKILLS COURSE
A one day course covering many problem solving strategies for situations commonly encountered on outdoor crags such as escaping the system, accompanied abseils, ascending the rope, lowering and simple hoists.
This is a condensed version of our 2 day course and won’t cover some of the most complicated scenarios - but it will still give you a ‘toolbox’ of strategies in case the unexpected happens. All specialist equipment can be provided.
Course dates: Sunday 22/03/09 and Sunday 19/04/09
Both courses are suitable for climbers with some experience who can tie in, belay and understand basic ropework skills.
ESSENTIAL NAVIGATION SKILLS
This one day course will cover a wide range of key navigation skills and will be based on the National Navigation Award Scheme bronze level syllabus (more details on the content can be found in the navigation courses section of our website).
Course dates: Saturday 28/03/09 and Saturday 25/04/09
Last year these courses booked up very quickly so if you are interested please get in touch soon.
September 20, 2008 at 9:05 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
The mighty Dinas Cromlech, Llanberis Pass
Yes, we really have been blasted by some lovely rays over the last few days. That really special autumn sun that keeps you warm and yet there is still a chill in the air whenever you go into the shade. My favourite time of year.
We’ve had all sorts on the go recently. Firstly, Al has just finished a Peak District mountain biking course and he reported a great few days riding in brilliant weather with great company - sounds perfect. I know he’s certainly right about the company……Jess sent me texts from various pubs in the Hope Valley and it appears Al was always in there with them - a guide that always goes the extra mile!
While that’s been happening I’ve been spending a couple of days multi pitching in Wales with returning client Mike. We spent a day on Idwal Slabs climbing Hope, Faith and Lazarus then we spent a brilliant day in the Llanberis Pass on Flying Buttress before a brilliant finale on Sabre Cut. We also managed the odd visit to the pub…… but in our case it was purely for performance enhancing rehydration you understand!
I’m now enjoying a weekend off in sunny Surrey before attending an IOL meeting in London Tomorrow. The sunny weather is sticking with us and we’ve even got a barbeque planned for lunchtime - summer is here at last!
Enjoy the weekend.
Cheers,
Paul
September 20, 2008 at 7:56 am · Filed under peak mountaineering
Our new course calendar is on the website. More course types than ever, more dates than ever…..and no price increases. Get them while they’re hot!
We hope to see you on a Peak Mountaineering adventure very soon.
September 13, 2008 at 11:46 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
Curbar Edge
Today has been a lovely day in the Peak District with an end of the summer feel to it. Perfect, infact, for a few hours climbing on the gritstone. The venue was Curbar, the company Tim and John, the climbing fantastic!
Firstly John polished off the mega classic ‘Peapod’ (HVS 5b). An interesting start, back and footing up the pod, a well protected but committing swing out of the pod and a final sweet little crack to finish. The perfect gritstone route.
I was up next for a lead of ‘L’Horla’ (E1 5b). Another excellent steep gritstone classic with a brilliant finish - either a graceful pull for the top or a desperate flounder. Today I chose to flounder! A great adventure.
Thirdly, Tim moved things up a notch onto ‘Insanity’ (E2 5c). The thin steep crack is best tackled by confident laybacking. Needless to say Tim looked as cool as a cucumber despite picking the hottest part of the day.
With time left for a quick second round John climbed ‘Maupassant’ (HVS 5a), I climbed ‘The Toy’ (E1 5c), which I always find to be a desperate struggle, before we all finished off by blubbering our way up the unprotected slab of Kayak (E2 5b).
Tonight, however, it’s been back to business. We’ve been putting the finishing touches to the coming years overdue course calendar. We hope everyone agrees it’s been worth the wait. More courses than ever, more dates than ever and more overseas adventures than ever. They should all be up on the website later this week so we hope you will come and have an adventure (or two) with us this year.
Regards,
Paul
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