Peak Mountaineering
The climbing blog of Paul Lewis
Archive for July, 2007
July 30, 2007 at 9:15 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
8 summers ago my friend Phill and I attempted the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses. This is one of the classic alpine north faces and a route I had dreamed of climbing since I started my alpine career. On this occasion we went for it despite a lot of snow on the face. We made slow but steady progress climbing tricky mixed terrain with ice axes and crampons throughout (on ground that people often use rock boots for). By the evening we had got to just under half height when a storm arrived early and with a dubious long range forecast we didn’t need much persuading to retreat. Many many abseils later we got to the glacier safely and spent a very cold and uncomfortable night before dashing down to the valley at first light.
3 years later we returned but didn’t even get on the face due to poor conditions. 2 years ago we returned but despite a brilliant period of weather and several ascents a few weeks before our arrival, we got to Chamonix just after a massive dump of snow had covered all the high mountain routes so we climbed a variety of lower altitude rock routes instead.
Round 4 is this week. Or rather, should have been this week. Instead, because of the large amounts of snow in the high alps, we have taken the decision to wait and see if conditions improve over the next few weeks.
So at the moment its 4-0 to the walker and instead I’m decorating the hall to our house! I’ve spent all day in a dark hallway staring out at some of the best weather we’ve had for a while. By 4pm I couldn’t take it anymore and headed for a great ride from Castleton and over to Jaggers Clough which lifted my spirits considerably. I’ve been climbing so much recently that I’ve neglected my biking and getting out in the Peak again really reminded me how good our local cycling is.
I did get some very strange looks as I passed people and thought they must be admiring my good looks. However, it all became clear when I got home and looked in the mirror because I was splattered in white emulsion paint with a particularly large blob on my nose!
July 22, 2007 at 9:18 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
I’ve had a mixture of work and play on Anglesey this weekend. I headed over with the family yesterday and we met up with friends at Outdoor Alternative (a brilliant low key campsite near Rhoscolyn). As we drove along the A55 in torrential rain Cal kept saying “don’t worry. It’s always sunny on Anglesey”. Sure enough, we arrived with sunshine breaking through and by early afternoon it was great. We bottom roped a few climbs with the children then went swimming and rockpooling before a great barbeque. Later on we were also treated to a firework display by some people partying on the beach. I’ve been working for the last 13 days so this was a very welcome chillout day.
Today I took an all female group for an introductory climbing day on Holyhead Mountain. Again the weather was great and I had a brilliant day with 8 very enthusiastic ladies. We climbed a good selection of routes from moderate to severe before heading for ice-creams and cake at the South Stack Cafe. Sure enough, as I left the island and crossed the Brittania Bridge it started to rain….and it hasn’t stopped since!
July 20, 2007 at 3:56 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
I’ve just got back from the final school group session for this week and as well as having a great week getting wet in canoes and getting even wetter climbing, it’s also become clear that the ’sweet of the century’ award must go to sour worms. I first met these taste sensations on a dive trip to South Africa.
At the end of each dive the dive master reached into a grubby dry bag and pulled out a worm for each person. It was the perfect thing to take away the taste of sea water and I’m sorry to say they are so addictive I almost looked forward to the post dive sweet more than the dive itself!
I brought several packets home and tried to ration them to one a day but soon they were gone. I thought that was it and gradually I got through my worm detox. But this week some angelic child turned up with a whole bag of them and it turns out you can buy them in bulk on ebay (600 for £4.70 - I’ve already checked!). Needless to say that child became my star canoeist, climber and all round adventure buddy (at least until he ran out of worms) and we both buzzed through the day on a sugar and chemical rush that would be illegal in 48 American states!
So there you go, Peak Mountaineering brings you the essential climbing news again. We are thinking of marketing them as a climbing aid as I’m sure a couple of worms pre-climb will boost your grade considerably. Just remember where you heard it first!
Oh yes, and the activity sessions were great too!
July 16, 2007 at 9:34 pm · Filed under peak mountaineering
It has been raining so much recently that when you get a sunny day you feel like a lottery winner (ermm…well perhaps a lottery winner feels richer!). I only remember 2 sunny days in the last 3 weeks! By the way - what’s the difference between a mountaineering instructor and a pizza? A pizza can feed a family of four!
Anyway, the show goes on and we’ve been busy, busy, busy here at Peak. Last weekend we were out with Juliann who was enroute from Shanghai to the States and making full use of her stopover to sample some quality gritstone. We climbed several routes at Froggatt then spent some time at Stanage - Thanks to Juliann for a great day…and as an extra bonus that was one of the sunny days! (this day was for Orion Mountaineering so thanks to Jules for that).
Then we spent a week working with school groups on climbing, abseiling and open boat canoeing. A lot of fun and the great thing about school groups is they always have interesting sweets to share!
Then it was straight into a Learn to Lead course for Bruce and Steve. 8 quality routes at Froggatt on Saturday (that was the other sunny day!). Infact, although it was busy there was a great atmosphere at Froggatt on Saturday. Possibly the sun going to everyone’s heads? We followed this with a fine meal at the Plough Inn in Hathersage before normal service was resumed on Sunday when we woke to torrential rain. We still got 6 routes done at Birchens and the guys stuck it out admirably. A really good weekend and thanks to Bruce and Steve for your good humour in the face of extreme adversity!
This week we are back with school groups. More fun, more sweets - it’s all good!
