Top Tip #38 - Rucksack Clip Ins

14th Jun 2019

Rucksack clip in sling

On multi-pitch climbs you will often carry a rucksack which, depending on the route, might include anything and everything from bivvy gear for several days to just a snack, windproof and approach shoes.  So, depending how heavy it is, you might want to take this off at belays to rest your shoulders or you might be swinging leads with your partner and might then need to swap it with your partner.

You can certainly swing it off to clip it into your belay via the pack haul loop, but then risk dropping your precious equipment if you fumble the clip or are wearing big gloves.  It is also always harder on cramped belays.  

Our 38th Peak Mountaineering Top Tip introduces you to the tried and tested APDD approach (Anti Pack Dropping Device)!  It is not as complicated as the acronym suggests.  Simply. lark’s foot a 60cm sling to the haul loop of your pack (if it’s a heavy pack we normally incorporate one of the shoulder straps as well - we have experienced a haul loop failing in the past). 

The APDD can then be clipped into the anchor before you remove the pack.  Simple.  We clip it out of the way onto the bottom of the shoulder strap when climbing and then it can easily be deployed at each anchor.  We’ve found that having a glove friendly large gate opening biner on the clip in end is handy and you can always incorporate one of those Petzl Strings to keep the biner orientated.

This system also works for emergency situations such as when you have to abandon your pack mid way up a pitch because you’ve unexpectedly found you can’t make some desperate move (or moves!) with it on.  In this case usually your second could then carry it up (they always love that option) or maybe you second can clip it in to a haul line for you to pull up.  The system also helps if you fall into a crevasse and need to take off your pack to ascend the rope to freedom.

Posted by Paul