Top Tip #35 - Turning a Munter Hitch into a Clove Hitch

22nd Apr 2019

On some terrain you may choose to belay a climber or scrambler using a Munter Hitch.  This is a simple, efficient and effective option but its safe use does take judgement and experience.  Then, when the belayed person arrives at the stance, it may be a good option to change the knot from a Munter Hitch to a Clove Hitch.  That’s where the 35th Peak Mountaineering Top Tip may help.  

The video will explain the technique and the advantages of keeping the integrity of the knot should be clear, but please also be aware that this technique also introduces some significant compromises - the carabiner has to be opened twice and the brake rope of the Munter Hitch should be held at all times until the Clove Hitch is created (we get the attached climber to hold the brake rope).  

For these reasons it is only suitable in situations where the climber is in a safe position while the change is made.  The decision about when and where to use it is down to the climbing team - we are simply sharing the idea and need to emphasise that we take no responsibiity for its safe use!

Posted by Paul