Unsung Gems #1 Amazon Crack

12th Aug 2015

 
 
It is fair to say that the Peak District crags feature some of the best climbing in the world.  If you climb at ‘Difficult’ grade you will find a peach and if you are pushing the boundaries of the sport there is still rock to keep you cranking happily for your lifetime.  It is a climbers paradise.  
 
Among the many thousands of climbs there are certainly lots of classic routes which are generally accepted to be among the best quality lines and many guidebooks will flag these up as must do options.  Of course, hidden amongst these are stacks of other brilliant routes that, while a little less well known, are well worth weeding out too.  Unsung gems.
 
We are lucky enough to have climbed a lot of routes and, although there are far more still to do than we’ve yet done, we wanted to highlight a few of these gems we particularly like for visitors to the area or newer climbers that may be interested.  It will be an occasional series with no particular order and no focus on grade.  It’s just a celebration of some of the best in the area.  We hope you enjoy them and we also hope it gets you to some of the lesser visited parts of the national park.  Happy climbing……
 
Unsung Gems #1 Amazon Crack
 
There’s more than one route called Amazon Crack in the Peak District.  This one is at Burbage North and is graded Hard Severe 4a.  You’ll find it some way along the crag (assuming you are walking in from the Burbage Bridge car parking) in the area near ‘Long Tall Sally’.
 
Amazon crack is the perfect option if you want to work on your jamming and/or lay backing technique as you can use either or both options to get to the top.  It is also well protected with wires, a few hexes and, most easily, cams.
 
 
You start up steep ground but soon come to a ledge that allows a break for the arms, a chance for more protection and a good viewpoint to spy the route ahead.  Once you are ready it’s a case of keeping moving (don’t forget the protection though!).  You can make it easier by using the right hand arete, or, if you prefer, just use the crack line for the true Yosemite experience.  The only problem with the route is you’ll wish it could go on for longer.
 
The top has good belay anchors and the walk off is simple.  There is nothing not to like and all to love about Amazon Crack.  Add it to your ‘to do’ list.
 
Posted by Cal